CARRIACOU
(GRENADAN GRENADINES)

The name comes from the Amerindian ‘Karyouacou’ and the first colonists were French turtle hunters and fishermen. By the 18th century their successors, still mostly Frenchmen, were cultivating the islands’ steeply incised slopes using imported African slaves. Some names of French origin for various bays and headlands have been handed down from that time, as have the ruins of some plantation owners’ houses and the towers of the old windmills used by the sugar and cotton plantations. Today’s population of around 7000 is mostly descended from the African slaves, with but the slightest admixture from the early European settlers. Carriacou (over 30 sq. km) is the largest (and most populous) of the Grenadines. Running from N to S down the centre of the island is a hill mass with peaks reaching 300m. The majority of the old plantations have been turned into smallholdings and pasture. In addition to these land based natural resources there is commercial fishing and merchant shipping. The latter activity is related to the tradition of smuggling from which the islanders do quite nicely, notably from the trade in alcohol. Their reputation may be a bit exaggerated but it’s a notorious fact that in Carriacou it’s easier to find a rum dealer than a fuel dock.
Located some 20M N of Grenada, of which it is a dependency, Carriacou has retained considerable cultural autonomy, especially with regard to its religious practices. There are even thought to be voodoo rites of Haitian origin.

Pilotage

Coast and anchorages
Carriacou is a dependency of Grenada and all boats coming from abroad should clear in at Hillsborough.

West Coast

Hillsborough Bay
The passage between Jack A Dan islet and Craigston Pt has a shoal with less than 1m over it. It’s better to go out round to the W of Jack A Dan before heading into the anchorage off Hillsborough’s dock. The anchorage, in 3–4m, is often uncomfortable in a N’ly swell pushed in when the NE trades are fresh.

Ashore Customs, Immigration and the Port Authority are close to the end of the dock (see plan). Although the little town with its cottages and small buildings seems a bit simple and dilapidated, you’ll find several shops and supermarkets for provisioning, especially where booze is concerned. The local market stalls (opposite the dock) have a good choice of fruit, vegetables and other fresh produce. Nearby, there are some restaurants offering local specialities at quite high prices, though still affordable. A few of these also have WiFi.

Sandy Island

Close to Hillsborough, this is a charming day anchorage, OK even for overnight in fair weather. Note The island is extended by reef (especially to the SW) and the approach to the S shore is none too obvious. You must anchor some way off. The ‘idyllic tropical island’ feel of this small sandy islet has been spoiled by Hurricane Ivan, which tore up the coconut palms, and the damage to the reef by the swell from Lenny. The area is a marine reserve and the use of mooring buoys is compulsory (Cruising Permit).

Tyrell Bay

This is one of the best-sheltered anchorages in the Grenadines. Even when there are a lot of boats, the huge bay never seems too crowded. In the ENE part of the bay there’s a coral-head. In theory it’s marked by buoys but they may not be there.
Note The S of Tyrell Bay just to the W of the boatyard is edged with shoals, from which a small sand islet emerges.
You can anchor between the S shore and the village dock in 3–4m. The anchorage is usually very calm because it’s protected from all but W winds.

Ashore For a few years now craftsmen have set up shop in Tyrell Bay and now there’s a large boatyard to complete the services thanks to its travel-hoist and big area of hard standing where there’s a small chandlery for basic equipment and careenage work. Water and electricity can be found at the pontoon. As well as electrical and mechanical repair services, Dominique Weber’s floating workshop opposite the boatyard has for many years done all sorts of welding work, as well as building small aluminium boats (VHF 16). Next to the boatyard is the small compound of the Carriacou Yacht Club where, at the bottom of the garden, there’s a restaurant on the first floor, a few rooms to let and laundry and mail services. A service for recording the arrival and departure of yachts has also been added recently. Taken together these services make Tyrell Bay the only other service centre in the Grenadines after Bequia. You can fill up with water at the boatyard quay. Fuel is available from the village dock but, for the same price, access to B&C Fuels on Petite Martinique is easier.

For more details on these moorings and the other shelters :